Aperitivo in Naples: the best bars and what to order

In Naples, aperitivo (the pre-dinner drink) is an institution, but it works differently from northern Italy. There's no Milan-style buffet culture. You order a drink, something to nibble arrives, you stand outside on the pavement or in a little square, and you talk. A lot. For hours.

What people drink in Naples

Neighbourhoods for aperitivo

Every neighbourhood has its own scene. Chiaia is smarter and more polished. The Quartieri Spagnoli are more down-to-earth and less touristy. The Vomero is where young Neapolitans go. The Riviera di Chiaia, with bars looking out to sea, is perfect for sunset.

Nibbles: what to expect

A Neapolitan aperitivo often comes with small snacks included in the price of the drink: taralli 'nzogna e pepe (crunchy rings made with lard and pepper), peanuts, Gaeta olives, slices of provolone del Monaco cheese. In some old-town bars you'll also get crostini with stracciatella or pistachio pesto.

“A Neapolitan aperitivo isn't a meal. It's a philosophy. It's the moment the city slows down, looks around and remembers it's alive.”