From a paper cone of fried fish to frittatina, from friarielli and sausage to a warm sfogliatella at 7am. What to eat in Naples to understand the city.
Naples is one of the world's capitals of street food. That's not an exaggeration: Neapolitans know it well, and any traveller who wants to understand the real city should try it at least once. Eating standing up in an alley, greaseproof paper in hand, is a ritual with deep roots in Neapolitan culture.
Where to start: the Quartieri Spagnoli
The Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter) are the beating heart of Neapolitan street food. The maze of alleys behind Via Toledo is the ideal place to get lost and eat. Here you'll find friggitorie (fry shops) open from dawn, pizza-by-the-slice places baking non-stop and fruit and veg stalls.
What to eat in the Quartieri Spagnoli:
- Cuoppo of mixed fry: fried fish or vegetables in the classic paper cone
- Pizza fritta: the fried version of pizza, filled with ricotta and cicoli (pork crackling)
- Panzarotti: fried potato croquettes, often with a cheesy centre
- Frittatina di pasta: pasta in ragù, shaped into a flat patty and fried
- Zeppole salate: soft savoury fritters served hot, straight from the oil
Neapolitan breakfast: a ritual worth getting up for
If you think breakfast is a minor meal, Naples will change your mind. The sfogliatella, strictly warm and fresh from the oven, is an almost religious experience. It comes in two versions: riccia (the best known, with crisp, flaky layers) and frolla (softer, made with shortcrust pastry). Both are filled with semolina, ricotta, candied orange and cinnamon.
Porta Nolana market: fish and local flavours
For a proper market experience, Porta Nolana is the place to go. This historic market, one of the oldest in Naples, is famous above all for very fresh fish that comes straight from the fishermen of the bay. There are also stalls of exotic fruit, spices, and Campanian cheeses and cured meats.
“In Naples you eat in the street, argue in the street, fall in love in the street. The real city is in the alleys, not in the restaurants.”
Pizza: a subject of its own
Talking about Neapolitan street food without talking about pizza would be heresy. The art of the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo has been on UNESCO's heritage list since 2017, and for good reason: there's nothing like it in the world. The soft dough, the airy cornicione (the puffy crust), buffalo mozzarella from Campania, San Marzano tomatoes. Every element has its own story.
The historic pizzerias worth the queue:
- Da Michele: the most famous, only margherita and marinara, always a queue
- Sorbillo: modern but true to tradition, great for pizza fritta
- Starita: in Materdei, one of the best fried pizzas in the city
- Di Matteo: in the heart of Spaccanapoli, where Neapolitans eat every day
When to go and how to get around
Neapolitan street food has no fixed hours, but some times are better than others. Early morning (7-9am) is for sfogliatelle and coffee at the counter. Mid-morning (10am-12pm) the fry shops get going. Lunch (1-3pm) is peak time for pizza by the slice. Evening (6-9pm) is perfect for a cuoppo or a pizza fritta while you stroll.
- street food
- food
- naples
- quartieri spagnoli
- local
Who wrote this
Gianluca Scanni
Founder @ Cose Fighe
